Kohala is the oldest part of the island, and upturned a'a has changed into something resembling soil. The ocean is to our left and washboard roads lead to the water. Finally the highway dead-ends at a small settlement called Hawi. There's an ice cream shop and a dozen or so Galleries, or upscale muu muu shops. We have an expensive single dip of coffee ice cream with chocolate chips, sit in the shade and get one of the locals to snap our photo.
The road east from Hawi goes only one place, and that's to the Pululu overlook. The guide book said for the best photos, take the trail. There was no trail in sight, only many tourists who, like us, had inched their cars off the road for a better view.
We shot way too many frames of this and even so didn't get a shot that does it justice. What's missing is a brooding sky to the east, a strong wind off the ocean, and the glaring face of the farmer whose fence row we were crowding.
After a salad and more last minute shopping back in Hawi, we headed down the center of the region, traveling the length of a volcanic spine that must have been slightly to the windward side. The hills were so lush we could have been in Ireland.
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